With a welcome surge of gentleman being more aware and concerned with their grooming and wardrobe, it is no surprise that our clientele is filling up with men willing to take the plunge and make a fashionable change.

Riley’s grown out hair was doing nothing for his fun personality, so we decided that a change was in order. He requested a look that was low maintenance and easy to style (who doesn’t want that, really?), as well as something that would be a little more mature, yet still fun and trendy. He has great hair to work with, so it seemed suiting that we turned his makeover into an info session for you all!

As you can see in the procedural photo, we amped up his color a bit with some light, cool toned pieces to create movement and texture in the length that was going to be left on top. Adding color to areas of interest in a haircut always draws the eye there, and really helps to showcase your work and create a complete look. Don’t be afraid of color when it comes to your male clients; just be aware that unless it is supposed to be more of an “extreme look”, whatever you do should always look fairly blended and natural. For both maintenance and lifestyle purposes, we chose to go with a tone and level of lift that would grow out nicely and not discolor in time. I did a staggered foiling pattern, using a balayage technique where I did not pull the color directly to the root. To create a more natural effect, I feathered the color down and left about one inch of natural color at the root area. This way, there would be no hard lines in the new color. I used a mild lightener with a very low level of lift, and once processed to a level 9, I toned with a violet/ash blend toner for a matte, subtle look.

For Riley’s haircut, I felt it necessary to eliminate as much hair as possible on the back and sides, while leaving as much on top for versatility in styling and to keep it on trend with disconnection and volume. I cut the top with a triangular shape, being longest in the front, tapering to shorter at the crown area. This technique allows the weight in the front to hold the hair back off of your client’s face, and to also eliminate unnecessary weight within the top.

For something fun and eye catching, we created a new shape for his hairline using edgers, and extended the line all around the perimeter of the disconnection on top. No matter how he wears his hair, there will always be an element of design within the lines. This showcases your work, as well as their personal style. Always be sure to outline the entire hairline if you are wanting a clean, sharp look. Personally, I love hard lines, so I always edge the entire perimeter.

When it comes to styling out your male clients, make them aware that if they want a specific look, a small amount of work will probably be needed. For Riley, I applied KEVIN.MURPHY HAIR.RESORT to damp hair – this is a wonderful product to create a gritty, lived in feel. It adds amazing texture to the hair, helping to hold it where you want it to be. Almost all of my clients with shorter hair live for this product, and it never disappoints.

I used a wrapping pattern with a classic Denman brush for a non-directional drying pattern, allowing you to style it into any direction you choose. Your hair will stay in the position you dry it into, so if you want versatility, use your brush to create it. A Denman brush is great for smoothing, creating volume, and drying the hair quickly.  Every stylist should learn how to work their classic styling tools, as they always come in handy. A Denman is definitely something to add to your styling arsenal if there is not one there already.

Once dry, I applied KEVIN.MURPHY ROUGH.RIDER. A dime sized amount worked up with your hands will go a long way in a haircut like this, so start small as you can always add more. This styling pomade is my go to choice for a completely matte, firm hold with the “next day” look that so many guys go for. You have about a minute to really work it in before it starts to set, so have fun with your styling and try something new. KEVIN.MURPHY has unbelievable options for every form of styling and every hair type. We are extremely pleased at Vivid to offer the full KEVIN.MURPHY range. We have endless options as stylists, and most importantly, our clients can’t get enough of it!

Move hair around. Get your hands in it. Try new product and technique. Show your male clients that you enjoy doing their hair and that once they have a great cut, the correct styling products, and the procedure down, they will never go back. All of our clients are important, and building a great male clientele will make you a versatile stylist and help to build your cutting technique and precision.

Thanks for reading!

-Thomas Melong