Author: Lya Navarra

New York Fashion Week for Spring 2016 revealed the sexy and long fringe on models to compliment the ‘70’s inspired fashions that hit the runways. It’s no secret that by incorporating a fringe into a cut will result in a younger and more playful feel.

We have received a lot of questions about fringe and how to best carry it off.

Facial shape, bone structure and silhouette/profile are the key elements for designers to determine a complimentary shape for a guest that will enhance as well suppress features. A lot of guests approach us with pictures of desired cuts that we know will not result in a complimentary look for them. It is our professional assignment to discuss their desires and come to a conclusion that results in the best interpretation of a look as well as an expression of their personality within the guest consultation.

Another must during the consultation is to bring up the maintenance, time, and patience it takes to flaunt a fringe:


  • Does your guest have the time to stop in every 2-3 weeks for a trim?
  • Is your guest an accomplished self-styler with a dryer to finish the fringe each day, wet or dry?
  • Are you willing to go the extra mile to add value to your guests’ services by offering complimentary fringe trims that only take a few minutes? This extra service will certainly gain your clients loyalty and present opportunities for alternative services down the road.
  • If your guest is opposed the maintenance, time, and patience then you will be sure to oppose cutting fringe on her.


Analyze and Determine Face Shapes

Perform this exercise with your guest so they can visualize their own face shape. As you point out the elements of a cut that will enhance and/or suppress their features, they will gain complete understanding of what will and what will not suit them best. This adds value as the guest overcomes any doubt that you are an educated designer who has their best interest in mind! Keep in mind these are guidelines to start with and other dimensions such as eye spacing, nose shape and hairline will add to the final decision.

  • Pull the hair back away from the face, secure tightly with an elastic and face the mirror

Photo of different face shapes for a hair cut guide


Oval Attributes

  • Fairly dominated forehead with narrower cheekbones and tapered jawline
  • Oval faces typically display a length comparison to 1 ½ times the width of the face with the forehead and jaw at approximately equal widths


Square Attributes

  • All points on the face are wide; broad forehead, prominent cheekbones and sharp-cornered jawline
  • The width of the face is approximately equal to the length of the face with an overall angular shape


Round Attributes

  • Face shape fairly bears resemblance to a circle; expanded cheekbones, tapered jawline and forehead
  • As with square shaped faces, the width of the face is approximately equal to the length of the face – round faces will clearly feature a more soft and rounded shape


Heart Attributes

  • Most of the width of the face is at the forehead (sometimes a high forehead), cheeks and eye areas with a smaller and narrower, sometimes pointed jawline


Oblong Attributes

  • Faces are as long as is wide featuring fairly dominated forehead, flatter cheeks and jawline with rounded corners
  • Identifiers are a high forehead and straight cheek area
  • Common characteristics often include a large distance between tip of the chin and the bottom of the lip

What is the best fringe for your guests’ facial shape and how can they wear the look this season?




Photo of Leah Michelle with Fringe

  • Textured baby fringe – short and choppy: WATCH HERE




Photo of Kate Hudson with Blonde Hair and Bangs


  • Keep the length long, grazing the eyes with tapered sides to conceal a broad forehead and accentuate the eyes
  • Long and side swept will soften and balance out the jawline
  • Keep the perimeter line soft, especially at the bridge of the nose for a peak of skin



Photo of Cameron Diaz with Blonde Hair and Side-Swept Bangs


  • Any length that is side swept will bring length to a round face
  • Long curtain fringe should fall off center and past the cheekbone
  • Long and asymmetric fringe that become narrow toward the ends
  • No center partings with round faces



Photo of Blonde Hair, Reese Witherspoon with Bangs/Fringe

  • Side swept will break up a wide forehead
  • Straight across long textured fringe – allow for some skin to peak through more in the center
  • Heavy fringe shorter in the center and tapering longer to the cheeks



Photo of Emma Stone with a short bob and side swept bangs

  • Side swept will balance out the entire face
  • Straight across with slight layers will lessen the length of the face
  • When styling, keep the fringe close to the forehead – no bumping the ends under with an iron or brush
  • Adding fringe to a small forehead will just add length to the face


Think about replacing consumer magazines in reception area with look books – tear sheets from those mags. Divide the tears into facial shape categories – Oval, Square, Oblong, Heart, Round, and Long. Tab the sections of the book accordingly with a diagram of each shape on the tab page. Now you have your guests flipping through images that will spark interest for their time with you and they will not be looking at consumer ads for hair care either! To keep it fresh, swap out the images with new ones every other month or so.

Guiding your guest to determining their facial shape will also help them immensely in choosing necklines on blouses and dresses, sun glasses, eyeglasses, earrings and necklaces. Guests will become very familiar in identifying their facial shape and comparing to those around them and images seen in magazines, movies and TV. You may find them much more educated on their next salon visit and be surprised when they hand you a picture and say, ‘I love this haircut and just know I can pull it off”!


Be sure to stalk Sam Villa Professional on Bangstyle and to check out all of their products in the new Bangstyle Store