Barbering is truly an art form. It takes skill, dedication and a love for transforming not only people’s hair, but their lives as well. Always a creative, Ryan Mulcahy came into this industry on the fence but now loves every waking minute of it. After a spark lit his fire in school, he’s been hooked ever since. As a veteran of American Crew and a current Regional Educator for 18.21 Man Made, he has immersed himself in the ever-growing industry that is Men’s Grooming. Learn more about Ryan Mulcahy A.K.A. The Rogue Barber and what he has to say about the future of the industry in this feature.
Tell us about your styling background:
I went to a barber college in Springfield, Missouri as kind of a second career. At 28 years old I was a marketing director for a home health agency and just wanted a change. In the beginning I didn't really give it a good college try, I felt like I was back in school and that it just wasn't for me, but after a few months it was like I had a new fire inside of me. Much to the surprise of my instructors (laughing), I started asking them to send me every person that walked through the doors of the school and this greatly improved my skill as well as confidence. Early on I had some really great advanced education; after graduating I had the privilege to attend American Crew's Method 1 Class in Denver, which really helped me start my career. I was immediately hired by one of the elite salons in Springfield, Salon Moda, as their only barber and this is where I was able to get in on the ground floor with the resurgence of barbering hitting the Midwest in 2012.
What drew you to hair?
Honestly, it was the creative aspect of it. I've always been a fairly creative and expressive person; so to be able to "create" something new and often different was exhilarating. Alongside that, you're dealing with the self-esteem and personality of your clients and being able to turn someone around in the chair at the end of a session and see how my creation affected them in a positive way is something cool to be a part of. Not to mention, I get to do that over and over every day for so many people, it truly is a very gratifying way to work.
What’s your favorite technique?
Man, I love, love, love clipper over comb as far as technique. I like the ability to elevate and create soft angles or keep a nice, hard, crisp edge. To have the skill to create even blends or heavy weight lines. It's all a lot of fun to me.
What is the biggest defining moment of your career so far?
Oh man, I think it's many small moments that are kind of melding together right now. I wouldn't want to say it's already happened, because who knows what amazing opportunity may come along? I definitely feel like meeting the team behind 18.21 was huge for me, especially so early in my career. It was such a huge honor to be able to be able to bend the ear of such powerhouses in this industry; sit down with them and learn from their decades of knowledge and experience, and then on top that off to have them truly treat me like a peer.
Is there a specific area you look to for inspiration?
I think there are hybrids coming out in colors and textures in salons, and seeing how we can bridge the gap to incorporate some of those awesome new trends and techniques in the world of barbering is exciting. Introducing those concepts locally is also an experience because what is happening in the coastal parts of the country take a while to work their way to us here in the Midwest. It's our jobs as artists to keep abreast of those things so we can share that with our clients, which is an exciting challenge.
Is there one product or tool that you can't live without?
(Laughs) Honestly when it comes to products, anything from 18.21 Man Made; it is essential to what I do. As far as tools; I have a specific tapered Andis barber comb that I use for clipper over comb work, and one that has a hook tooth on the end that helps create and define crisp, clean, straight lines.
How do you use styling to enhance your cuts?
That is something that is always discussed during the consultation. The finished appearance the client is after and how much effort they want to put into their look is what determines how the hair will be cut and styled. For instance, a lot of guys want that height in their hair but don't want to put the effort in with blow drying and product, so my job is to help them find a look that they're willing to work with, then style coaching them with the steps, techniques and products they need to recreate it. In the end it’s not just about styling them, but teaching them how to style it themselves.
What is your favorite haircut to create?
I don't really have a favorite style! I think they're all really fun and enjoyable when you have the skill to execute them properly. My favorite moments are those "wow" moments when you turn someone around and you've given them something new that they didn't know their hair could do. Just seeing those reactions are some of my favorite moments.
What are the most popular styles your clients are asking for?
Many guys are asking for heavier weight lines. Bald fades to heavy contrast so you see length on top, with the option of pulling it straight back or wearing it more forward.
If you had a superpower, what would it be?
That's a tough one! My 7-year-old son and I talk about this a lot! I think my choice would be to fly, which I know isn't the most helpful to humanity (Laughing), but it would just be really cool.
Who were your mentors along the way and how did they shape your career?
I've had some pretty amazing mentors from very early on. From the very beginning, and it was honestly more indirect; my wife's older brother, Roger Mace who was a cosmetologist and barber. He had a barbershop in Rogers, Arkansas called Lew's that he's since sold, but his style really became the framework of how I wanted my own shop to be. To create a new school barbershop that still embraced all of the classic aspects of what we love about traditional barbershops. He was also one of the first generation educators for American Crew, so I was able to really pick his brain in the beginning.
Then, I would say being able to go to Al Urbanowski's shop in Denver for American Crew's Method Class was an encouraging kickstart. Al's got this style about him that's just really encouraging and as a brand new barber it really meant a lot to learn from him.
More recently, being able to meet, learn from and work alongside the gentlemen of 18.21 Man Made, Angel del Solar, and his brother David, and Aston La Fon has just been an incredible privilege. Being able to learn from them; a powerhouse of a team with decades of experience, and having them treat me as a peer in this profession has been such an honor. The philosophy that surrounds 18.21 is the elevation of the man's experience in a salon or barbershop; that men are not a trend and to take back that counter space with amazing products geared toward men. That is exactly what we want our clients at my shop to experience as well.
What cut or color trends will we see men wearing this year?
What you are going to see is men stepping out of the box a little when it comes to color. We're seeing bright flashes of color: neon greens and blues and reds. Almost like a punk feel. Highlighted tips have even made a comeback, but how that translates into what the majority of men want will be pretty different. And that's the beauty of trends, testing the barriers of what's acceptable. It's an awesome time to be doing what I love in this profession.
To learn more about Ryan Mulcahy and 18.21 Man Made, be sure to stalk Ryan on Bangstyle and stay tuned for even more inspiration from the 18.21 Man Made team!
