If you’ve ever stared at your reflection wondering why your hair looks like three different textures competing for airtime, you’re not alone. Curly hair tends to scatter even the most beauty-savvy among us into a spiral of trial-and-error chaos. Enter: the Curly Girl Method (CGM), a routine that has developed something of a cult following over the past decade and for good reason.
But before you run to toss out your products and swear allegiance to the way of Lorraine Massey (the stylist and author who created the method), let’s decode what CGM actually is, why it works, and how to approach it with both enthusiasm and realism.
What Is the Curly Girl Method?
At its core, the Curly Girl Method is a set of guidelines designed to help curly hair retain moisture, reduce frizz, and reveal its natural curl pattern. Traditional haircare often relies on sulfates (harsh detergents), silicones (which can cause buildup), and heat styling: all things that can dry out curls and disrupt curl formation. CGM strips all that back.
Its basic tenents:
- Avoid sulfates, silicones, drying alcohols, and heat tools
- Use gentle cleansers or co-washes
- Condition generously
- Style on wet hair
- Use techniques that encourage curl clumping
It sounds rigid, and it can be, but it’s built around a clear purpose: to restore moisture and encourage curls to form consistently.
Why So Many People Swear By It
For anyone embracing their curls for the first time, CGM is an excellent starting point. It gives you structure where you might previously have relied on guesswork.
People love it because it:
- Simplifies product selection
- Focuses on hydration
- Teaches actual curl-enhancing techniques
- Reveals your curl pattern at its healthiest
In short, CGM acts as a roadmap for completely unfamiliar terrain.
How to Implement the Curly Girl Method
Here’s a practical, step-by-step guide to applying CGM in real life, from washing to post-shower styling and everything in between.
1. During the Shower: Cleanse + Condition
Cleanse:
Use a sulfate-free cleanser or a co-wash. Massage your scalp thoroughly with your fingertips to remove oil and buildup, letting the suds cleanse the lengths passively.
Condition:
Apply a CGM-approved conditioner from mid-length to ends. Add plenty of water and “squish to condish”—scrunching upward to help curls clump and absorb moisture.
Rinse fully for fine hair, or partially for dry/thick/coily textures.
2. After the Shower: Style While Wet
CGM works best when hair is styled immediately out of the shower, dripping or very wet.
Step 1: Apply a Leave-In Conditioner
This adds slip and moisture. Rake it through with your fingers or use praying hands (smooth over palms). Scrunch upward to enhance curls.
Step 2: Apply a Gel or Mousse
To form defined curls, apply a strong-hold gel or lightweight mousse. Scrunch upward again or “rake and shake” for looser waves.
You may notice hair starting to form a gel cast—a stiff, crunchy shell that forms around the curls as they dry. This is good!
3. Drying Techniques
- Plopping: Wrap hair in a microfiber towel or cotton T-shirt for 10–20 minutes to remove excess water.
- Air-drying: Most CGM beginners do this to reduce frizz.
- Diffusing on low heat: While strict CGM avoids heat, many adapt the rules to allow low-heat diffusing. If staying strict, use cold or room-temp airflow.
Avoid touching your hair while it’s drying, as this disrupts curl clumps and creates frizz.
4. Breaking the Gel Cast
Once your curls are 100% dry, you’ll likely have a crunchy gel cast. This protects definition while the hair dries, but you’ll want to soften it.
To break the cast:
- Add a few drops of lightweight oil or serum to your palms.
- Scrunch upward gently until hair softens.
- Fluff the roots with your fingers to add volume.
And voila! Soft, defined curls with minimal frizz.
But Let’s Be Honest: CGM Isn’t Perfect
Here’s the part of the curly conversation the internet sometimes forgets: the Curly Girl Method is a method, not a mandate. It’s incredibly helpful, but it’s not for everyone.
It tends to work best for waves and curls (2A–3C) and those with dry or frizzy hair. But people with very fine hair, or coily patterns that thrive on oils and butters, may need to tweak or break some rules.
Take What Works, Leave What Doesn’t
When you start, stick with CGM as written to understand your hair’s baseline. But as time goes on, feel free to adapt. Maybe your hair thrives with occasional heat. Maybe it needs a silicone serum every few weeks. Maybe you need a stronger shampoo.
Curly hair is a relationship, not a formula.
CGM-Friendly Products to Get You Started
Cleansers
SheaMoisture Coconut & Hibiscus Curl & Shine Shampoo – A gentle, sulfate-free wash that cleanses without stripping your curls of moisture.
SheaMoisture Coconut & Hibiscus Curl & Shine Shampoo
As I Am Coconut CoWash – A creamy co-wash that melts tangles and refreshes curls while keeping them soft and hydrated.
As I Am Coconut CoWash
Conditioners
Aussie Moist Conditioner – A budget-friendly staple with tons of slip for easy detangling and silky curls.
Aussie Moist Conditioner
Giovanni 50:50 Balanced Conditioner – A lightweight yet nourishing formula that balances moisture without weighing down fine textures.
Giovanni 50:50 Balanced Conditioner
Leave-Ins
Kinky-Curly Knot Today – A cult-favorite leave-in that smooths knots and defines curls with effortless slip.
Kinky-Curly Knot Today
Curlsmith Weightless Air Dry Cream – A featherlight moisturizer that softens curls and enhances definition without heaviness.
Curlsmith Weightless Air Dry Cream
Stylers
Ouidad Advanced Climate Control Heat & Humidity Stronger Hold Gel – A strong-hold gel that locks in definition and creates a satisfying gel cast for long-lasting curls.
Ouidad Advanced Climate Control Heat & Humidity Stronger Hold Gel
Not Your Mother’s Curl Talk Gel – A flexible-hold gel that defines curls while keeping them soft, bouncy, and touchable.
Not Your Mother’s Curl Talk Gel
Deep Conditioner
Mielle Babassu & Mint Deep Conditioner – A protein-moisture balanced mask that strengthens and revitalizes curls with a refreshing mint tingle.
Mielle Babassu & Mint Deep Conditioner
Some of the products featured here may contain affiliate links, meaning we may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. All recommendations are based on personal use, stylist feedback, or product performance.
