There’s a lot of buzz around “invisible” or “hidden” layers—and for good reason. These techniques add volume and movement to a haircut without visible layers or altering the existing shape. For clients who like the silhouette of their current cut but want more lift at the crown, invisible layers are a subtle but powerful solution.
Jesse Linares, Sam Villa ArTeam Member and stylist at Structured Hair (@jesse.linares), demonstrates how to enter an existing shape and subset a new internal layer to create the appearance of movement without visibly changing the haircut.
A Pro Guide to Cutting Invisible Layers
Linares says he uses a Sam Villa Signature Series InvisiBlend Shear for this method. The shear has 23 teeth, and the straight blade is not sharp—just highly polished and dull. When the teeth interact with the dull blade, it acts almost like a razor, creating a very soft cut and leaving no visible line within the shape. These shears make a small reduction, which makes them safe to use in delicate areas like the fringe and crown. The result is volume and movement, but the overall shape of the cut remains unchanged.
The Tool: InvisiBlend Shear
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Hold the teeth on the bottom when skimming over the surface of a short haircut.
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Hold the teeth on top and drive into the blade for a more effective internal cutting motion.
How to Create Invisible Layers
1. Isolate the Crown
Start at the high point of the head and take a curved section down to the center back. Repeat on the other side and secure the top section with Sam Villa Dry Sectioning Clips.
2. Randomize the Sections
To conceal the “hidden layers,” use the guide tooth of a Sam Villa Signature Series Long Cutting Comb (held like a pencil) and kick back into the section. Pull out a small piece of hair to create a zigzag part. That hair becomes part of the bottom section and will not be cut.
Have fun with this process—keep it random. Continue working around the entire top section. You can make the subsections fine or wide: finer sections create more subtle results, while larger ones give a more dramatic effect.
3. Split the Top Section and Choose Your Lines
Divide the top section in half. Decide whether to cut vertical or horizontal lines, depending on the desired effect.
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Vertical:
Take a section and elevate it using vertical finger positioning where the head begins to curve. When cutting a straight line on this curve, the middle of the section will be closer to the head and the ends longer, which creates a scoop or concavity in the shape. Seeing the roundness of the head as you cut will keep the shape reserved in the silhouette. -
Horizontal:
Use horizontal finger positioning and compress the hair across the top of the head with consistent tension. This prevents a short interior area from forming, as each hair follows the curve of the head to reach the cutting point. The length increases outward. This acts as a layer without a collapsing point, building volume internally.Comb the section upward using the fine teeth of the comb for tension, then bring it across the high point of the head (it helps to stand on the opposite side for balance). Cut using the InvisiBlend Shear, with the teeth cutting into the blade. This allows the shears to park in one spot and make multiple cuts.
Linares explains that these invisible layers create a shorter shape inside a subsection, building visible volume without dramatically changing the shape of the cut.
Why Stylists Love Invisible Layers
Invisible layering is a modern way to update a cut without visible change. It’s perfect for clients who want volume and crown lift while keeping their overall style intact. The technique works especially well for those who are cautious about layers but still want texture, softness, and internal movement. With the right tools and approach, invisible layers offer stylists a controlled way to customize haircuts while maintaining the original shape clients love.
Credits for Model Shots: Hair/Sam Villa ArTeam; Photographer/Katie Parker; Makeup/Teal Druda; Wardrobe/Amia Serrano
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