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When your client finally gets their length to where they want it, they might notice that there are other issues that arise. With long hair, many experience a lack of volume or an excess of density that can make styling difficult. A great technique that stylists can utilize to ease weight while keeping a long look is with invisible layering and zig-zag partings. “This is a technique for guests with long hair that want a skinny debulked shape that lays close to the head…without seeing any layers,” explains Jesse Linares, Sam Villa ArTeam.  

Linares goes through this technique from start to finish in the following video. He explains in depth the proper way to go about it based on hair time and outcome as well as the conversation to have with your client prior to cutting. He explains that it is important to communicate to your client exactly what the plan is so they understand exactly how to style it.




  • The top section is detached and does not get layered, so when it falls over the bottom section hair looks one-length with less bulk.
  • A sweet spot is determined for zigzag parting and hair is selectively added to the top to keep it longer and dropped to the bottom to be cut shorter.  Strategically making decisions in accordance with a design plan.
  • Elevate vertically straight up towards the ceiling to achieve shorter layers at the occipital while leaving length at the perimeter.
  • The shorter hair at the occipital creates the concavity at the nape for a slimmer shape.

“This approach creates empty channels in the underlayer allowing the hair from the top section to neatly fall into the negative space to debulk the silhouette,” explains Linares.

Linares advises explaining the strategy behind the technique to guests.  The shorter layers can be unexpected and seem like the opposite of what they requested, knowing the “why” behind cutting them will help the guest become more comfortable with the idea and the benefit it delivers.


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