Lightening hair is a chemical service that requires foundational knowledge about color theory, chemistry and placement. The service should be bespoke to each client, as they have their own unique canvas that requires various formulas based on starting tone and desired goal, techniques based on placement, or product choices based on the state of their hair. Additionally, customization needs to take place when lightening curly and coily patterned hair — it is all about building on your foundations with a few expert techniques to ensure proper lift and healthy results. Below we’re touching on a few expert blonding techniques for curly and coily patterned hair!
Start With The End:
As with any service, the consultation is a key component of any blonding appointment. Primarily, you’ll need to understand how light your client wishes to be and what type of placement they are looking for. Do they want a bold all-over tone? Blended babylights? Color to enhance each curl? Or a natural-looking transition from root to tip? This helps determine a plan of action for both you and your client. It might be possible to create the look they’re after in a single session, or it may require multiple appointments to get them there. Either way, an open line of communication about upkeep, appointments, investment and home-care is key at this stage.
Strength, moisture and finishing are the key attributes to any successful color service and are the perfect complement for naturally curly and coily patterns. To ensure your curly and coily clients are achieving their hair goals be sure to stock up on these product picks.
Redken Flash Lift Bonder Inside (or Redken Flash Lift Pods Bonder Inside) is the go-to lightener for all hair types and can be greatly beneficial for curly and coily hair patterns. This innovative lightener formula upholds the integrity of the hair from the inside out with bonder to encourage strong hair and shiny results.
Flash Lift Bonder Inside & Flash Lift Pods Bonder Inside are the top choices for curly and coily hair patterns due to the fact that it helps maintain bonds within the hair, which helps keep curl and coil patterns intact during lightening.
Once hair is lightened to the desired level, Redken Shades EQ Gloss is the must-have next step. This acidic color formulation restores the balance of pH to the hair following a lightening process and adds condition and shine to the hair. Not only will Shades EQ help neutralize unwanted tones, but by lowering the pH of hair, it will also aid in defining curl and coil patterns.
One of Redken’s latest releases, the Acidic Bonding Concentrate Range is the perfect follow-up post-lightening. Utilizing the power of pH to restore hair to an optimum level, the key ingredient, Citric Acid, strengthens, repairs and conditions hair while also offering protection against color fade. By reducing damage, breakage and the appearance of split ends, curly and coily patterns can thrive in their most natural state no matter what color they choose.
Once an end result is agreed upon, you can determine the sectioning and weaving pattern that is best suited to your client.
A few tips:
- Unless an even all-over lift is desired, as a rule of thumb it is best to create weaves that are similar to the pattern of the curl.
- Change the thickness of the weave pattern based on the thickness of the curl/coil pattern. Taking larger weaves for looser patterns and smaller weaves for tighter patterns.
- Zig-zag partings can be an ideal way to deter against lines of demarcation.
- Don’t be afraid to backcomb. This can help create softer transitions between the base and lifted tone.
- Heavily blend the application of bleach with your tint brush.
- Saturate the hair with enough lightener, applying to both sides of each section for a consistent lift.