C712d915c30f324fd0d8 cutting techniques sam villa

In previous hair tutorials, Sam Villa showed us how to enhance shorter hair styles with texture in movement. This time Sam Villa shows us that diamonds are a girl’s best friend – especially when it comes to creating movement in layers! In his latest hair cutting tutorial he demonstrates how to use diamond sections in the crown area with over direction and diagonal finger angles to create the perfect amount of volume and movement.  



“You’re going to start seeing a degree of shortness and square shapes at the crown, and diamond shaped sections are the way to go…essentially you’re distributing areas of weight and length in the corners of the diamond,” says Villa.


  • Pay close attention to the quadrants of the diamond (each a triangle and numbered 1-4).
  • Always start cutting the hair on the dominant side and stand opposite of it (if right handed quadrant #2, if left #1)
  • Fingers should be diagonal to the head so when hair falls it will lay short to long and tilt away from the face.
  • When over directing, over direct section 2 to 1, 1 to 2, 3 to 4 and 4 to 3.
  • Use a Sam Villa Signature Series Reversible Blending Shear with the blunt blade on the bottom and cut left to right and right to left repeatedly until all hair is cut in each section – it is a blunt cutting action, but yields a diffused line like point cutting.
  • After cutting each line to desired length, go back in 1” above the ends and soften more with the bending shear.

Take a peek at all of the tips and beautiful tools Sam has created for artists. For even more hair care and styling tricks, be sure to stalk Sam Villa Professional on Bangstyle and check out all of his tools in the Bangstyle Store!