280ecd410aab8ce7bb43 sam villa shears

Texture has taken on a whole new movement when it comes to the hairdressing industry. Just as we saw layers upon layers of fabric walk down the runways this year at fashion week, we’ll be seeing layers upon layers of texture make their way into the art of hair cutting. Clients are on the search for movement, volume and a change to their existing look and face-framing layers are the perfect way to bridge that gap!

Sometimes your cutting techniques need a little refreshing as the seasons change. If you’re looking for a new way to cut soft face-framing layers we’ve got a few tips for you! Sam Villa, Co-Founder of Sam Villa and Global Artistic Ambassador for Redken, uses diagonal sections and high elevation in this easy to replicate approach that creates predictable layers with a soft organic edge. Watch the video to see the method in action and keep a few of the following tips in mind!


Things to Keep in Mind

  • Use a middle part and diagonal elevated sections so hair moves itself forward.  The elevation creates softness and the angle creates the face frame.
  • Use a dry cutting shear. Not only is hair easier to texturize when dry, but techniques are also more effective and the longer arms on the Sam Villa Signature Series 7” Dry Cutting Shear allow for a deeper point cut.
  • Create the guide on a diagonal and then fan and point cut. Place your thumb in the center of the index finger and push to curl hair around the thumb. Stabilize shear and open and close while moving through hair – this keeps it parallel to the hair so just weight is taken out.
  • For the next section, go one finger width longer than the guideline to create a soft framing edge.  Repeat for each section.
  • The over direction point is to the center part; use the spine of the comb to match up.
  • When cutting on the opposite side (left), the shear points down instead of up (if right-handed), so take the section on the opposite side (left), then move back to the right side and do the cutting there.   

Texture can be a tricky look to achieve because there is no exact formula to it. Many times the texture is unique to the cut, the style or specifically the stylist. Everyone learns how to texturize in his or her own unique way and it is through action that you build your expertise. “Texture is all visual and feel, there’s no way to cross check it, so don’t go looking for hair to cut, be at peace with the fact that sometimes you will cut more than other times,” says Villa. The best thing you can do is to go in with a plan. Take things slowly and check your work from different angles as you’re working through the cut. Run your fingers through the hair, comb it, tousle it, and see how it moves! This will give you a better idea of how what you’re doing with shears will affect the finished style!

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Looking for even more hair care and styling tricks, be sure to stalk Sam Villa Professional on Bangstyle and check out all of his tools in the Bangstyle Store!