Short hair is having a moment again, and so is the blowout. After years of long layers and lived-in waves, more people are feeling ready for a fresh cut—and a polished finish to match. One style bringing those two trends together is the Italian bob: a full, blunt shape with soft layering and a bouncy, voluminous blowout.
“Bobs are back in a big way. More and more people are feeling the itch to cut it off—and blowouts are also back. The Italian bob mixes the best of both worlds. It has a full perimeter with subtle layering, and a major focus on a bouncy finish,” says Jamie McDaniel, Sam Villa Ambassador.
If you’re a stylist looking to refine your technique or a client curious about what makes this cut different, here’s a clear breakdown of how the Italian bob is created and styled for maximum movement.
How the Italian Bob Is Cut
The Cut
The Italian bob starts with a strong, blunt one-length foundation. Hair is sectioned using vertical partings, then elevated at 45 degrees past the horizontal 90-degree line. The cut is done with a Sam Villa Streamline Series Shear and an even finger angle, taking off only about one inch in the layers.
The key here is restraint. Cutting the layers too short can create a bulky, rounded shape that overwhelms the clean perimeter. Keeping the layers subtle maintains fullness without tipping into that unwanted “mushroom” effect. The same elevation and vertical partings are used all the way around the head, working with a traveling guide to keep the shape consistent.
The Bangs
The fringe is cut from short to long to frame the eyes, then lightly softened with Signature Series Reversible Blending Shears. This keeps the bang area connected to the rest of the cut without looking heavy or overly blunt.
How to Style the Italian Bob for a Bouncy Blowout
The signature of the Italian bob isn’t just the cut—it’s the finish. The blowout is what gives this look its soft movement and body.
Step-by-Step Finish
- Start with a full-body mousse to give the hair lift without weighing it down.
- Blow-dry using a vent brush to move the hair and allow maximum airflow through each section. Dry until the hair is about 75% dry.
- To build volume, use less tension during this stage.
- Switch to a 1.5-inch round brush and set the hair around rollers to cool and hold the shape.
- Once cooled, remove the rollers and brush through with the vent brush to soften the look while keeping the bounce.
The goal is fullness that feels touchable—not stiff or overworked.
The Tools to Get The Look
Sam Villa Thermal Ionic Pro Vent Brush
Sam Villa Signature Series Thermal Round Brush 1.5”
Sam Villa Ionic Professional Hair Dryer
Why the Finish Matters More Than Ever
According to McDaniel, the blowout is where many clients need the most guidance right now.
“Take your time with the finish. Clients are relearning how to style their hair after a decade of just blast drying and throwing curls in it, so now is the time to educate them on the how-to,” she explains.
One of the most useful ways to explain the process is through simple comparisons clients can relate to.
“The cold shot on the blow dryer will set and hold the shape. Just like running to the dryer once your clothes are dry and folding them right away. How your hair cools is exactly how it will wear throughout the day.”
That cooling step is what locks in the volume and shape, making the blowout last longer throughout the day.
Why Clients Are Asking for the Italian Bob
The Italian bob works because it feels current without being extreme. It’s polished but not rigid, structured but still soft. The blunt shape gives the cut a strong outline, while the light layering and blowout add movement and body.
As more clients move away from ultra-long styles and low-effort air drying, this look fits right into what they’re asking for now: shorter hair that still feels styled, with volume that looks intentional but not overdone.
For stylists, it’s also an opportunity to reintroduce blowout education into the chair—helping clients get more out of their cut long after they leave the salon.
Some of the products featured here may contain affiliate links, meaning we may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. All recommendations are based on personal use, stylist feedback, or product performance.
