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Whether creating a lived-in look or a detailed cut, when it comes to haircutting design it requires a great deal of precision. When it comes to results, every stylist aims for predictability. This is why understanding the fundamental dos and don’ts of designing a haircut comes into play. This can reduce those moments where there is an unwelcome finish or surprise result.  

Blake Reed Evans, Sam Villa Ambassador and owner of Shear Art Salon (Tampa, FL) @blakereedevans, breaks down some basic guidelines that ensure desired results and build confidence at the chair.  Properly extracting weight from varying hair types, building volume, cutting a perimeter to bevel under or flip up and tips that make it easier for guests to style hair at home can be watched here.


  • Ensure hair tucks under by using a finger angle with the weight on top.  The hair on top will be longer and weigh down the underneath sections.
  • Create a square shape by using straight graduation by holding hair 90° off the head shape. 
  • Cut hair to flip up by using a finger angle with the weight on bottom. The hair on top will be shorter and the hair underneath will be longer.


  • Exclusively cut hair when wet, be open to dry cutting.  Dry cutting shows growth patterns and/or cowlicks easier than wet hair and allows a stylist to see the natural fall of hair to better assess.
  • Stick to one “favorite” shear.  There is a time and technique for all shears, so have multiple versions to solve multiple problems. Use a Sam Villa Signature Series Swivel Dry Cutting Shear 7” when dry cutting, a Sam Villa Signature Series Wet Cutting Shear 5.75” for more precision on wet hair, etc.
  • Do the same thing all the time – customize the design for each guest based on their hair type/texture and add subtle changes – fringe, flip ends up, add texture/layers, etc.) - each season to keep the look fresh.

Shop The Technique:

Sam Villa Signature Series Swivel Dry Cutting Shear 7”

Sam Villa Signature Series Wet Cutting Shear 5.75”


More from Evans on this topic can be seen on TikTok.  Learn more valuable information from Sam Villa and team here.  Including “Mannequin Mondays,” “Transformation Tuesdays,” and “Wellness Wednesdays” on Facebook @SamVillaPros and YouTube @SamVillaHair.  Quarterly “Show Must Go On” events can also be accessed on the same channels for FREE!